McSorley's Old Ale House,160 years old in 2014

For the record, everyone just calls this historic old ale house, McSorley’s and ladies if you haven’t belled up to the bar that’s because it was one of the last of the “Men Only” pubs, which only admitted women after legally being forced to do so in 1970. Located at 15 East 7th Street in the East Village neighborhood of Manhattan this famous iconic saloon is the oldest Irish tavern in New York City. As it inches its way up to 2014 the saloon will celebrate 160 years in business. With that long standing record McSorley’s leaves a trail of memories that are forever etched into the romantic legends of the city.

McSorley's Bar 1912 by John French Sloan

FAMOUS PATRONS Doors opened at this historic saloon in 1854 and men and women have been eager patrons to sit in the lap of historical reverie. There have been regulars, so to speak, who frequented McSorley’s---writers, poets, politicians, actors and hangers on for the ale and the conviviality. Peter Cooper founder of his free college, The Cooper Union for the Advancement of Science and Art, was a patron as Cooper Union was located nearby. Among notable patrons that McSorley’s claims as a visitor, Abraham Lincoln may have also stopped by for a bit of draft, perhaps after his famous speech at the Great Hall of Cooper Union that propelled him from an unknown western lawyer into the leading Republican contender. Even Boss Tweed of the infamous Tammany administration made it his stomping ground. Teddy Roosevelt of Rough Rider fame must have left his mark on the place as it just suited his personality.

THE INTELLIGENTSIA Literary figures like Brendan Behan, LeRoi Jones, Michal Bock, Gilbert Sorrentino and Paul Blackburn have been cited as regulars. In his 1923 poem, “I was sitting in mcsorley’s,” poet E.E. Cummings described McSorley’s as “the ale which never lets you grow old.” He also described the bar as “snug and evil.” The aged artwork and artifacts, newspaper articles covering the walls, sawdust floors and the Irish waiters and bartenders give McSorley’s an atmosphere that would be reminiscent of what “Olde New York,” may have looked like. It appears as if not piece of memorabilia has been removed from the walls and there are many items of historical paraphernalia in the bar including what is alleged to be Houdini’s handcuffs.

McSORLEY’S DAY IN NEW YORK If any place could be significantly associated with St. Patrick’s Day it surely is McSorley’s and that association came to full circle several years ago. In recognition of its 150 anniversary , his Honor, Mayor Bloomberg in a proclamation, which he personally presented to McSorley’s, declared St. Patrick’s Day, February 17th McSorley’s Day in New York. McSorley’s touts itself as presenting fine home cooking and mugs of good ale with luncheon specials daily.

McSorley’s Old Ale House has withstood the changes that define New York City, but it has kept its rich history, mystery and legends intact making it a ‘must visit’ ale house for all lovers of ancient lore and good ale.

THE LIBRARY, GENERAL SOCIETY OF MECHANICS & TRADESMEN by Polly Guerin

A rare and important New York treasure welcomes the foot traffic at 20 West 44th Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenue. It is The Library at the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, the largest free circulating library in the city open to the public for on-site use and scholarly research. There are no restrictions; everyone is invited to enter the building. Most stand in awe as they view the main reading room that soars to a height of three stories topped by a magnificent skylight. The faux marble pillars, ironwork, and wooden shelving lend the reading room a rare and unique place in the city where it is freeze framed in time awaiting visitors.

THE APPRENTICE LIBRARY Established in 1820 as the Apprentices’ Library, by 1861 the library extended privileges to women and at the turn of the 19th century it had become the largest free circulating library in New York City. It’s an awesome place and I can attest to its rich trove of books as I did research here for my book, The Cooper-Hewitt Dynasty of New York (History Press, 2012). In the 1885 Centennial Celebration, Abram Stevens Hewitt recalled a visit to the society with his father John Hewitt, who had been initiated as a member in 1810. “When I was a boy eleven years of age, my father took me by the hand and led me up to the Apprentice Library. For the first time in my life I saw books beyond the wildest dreams of my fancy.” There Abram indulged his passion for reading in one of the richest collections of books in New York.

LIBRARY SPANS TWO CENTURIES The book and periodical collections of the Library span two centuries, number more than 110,000 volumes, and are suited to both on-site use and scholarly research. The circulating collection includes books on all subjects from the past and the present, while the non-circulating collection includes books and periodicals on the “useful and mechanical arts,” urban trades and crafts, printing and publishing, building and construction, and 19th century Americana. Recent acquisitions focus on the built environment and the occupations and activities of behind-the-scenes New York, including the building and construction industry, architecture, historic preservation, printing and publishing, labor and work history and cultural production.
 

THE GENERAL SOCIETY OF MECHANICS & TRADESMEN (GSMT) The Library is an educational program of The General Society of Tradesmen, an educational and philanthropic organization founded on November 17, 1785 when thirteen artisans established it as a craftsmen’s mutual aid organization intended to assist brethren, workmen and their families in sickness and distress. Abraham Godwin (1763-1855) the artist and engraver, who devised the membership certificate, incorporated a framework centered on the group’s iconic motto, “By Hammer and Hand All Arts Do Stand,” and symbol, the upraised arm , with hammer. In 1820 GSMT founded the Mechanics and Tradesmen School with its library.

MEMBERHIP IN GSMT Membership expanded rapidly. The General Society’s original membership registration record records the numbered names of every member who joined The General Society since its founding. Peter Cooper, founder of his free institution, Cooper Union is listed in the membership archives on December 6, 1837 , as a ‘Glue Maker,’ a tradesman term that Cooper preferred. GSMT continues to operate today as a society for mechanics and architects with its mission to improve educational and cultural opportunities for working people in New York City. The Artisan Lecture series continues to focus on craftsmanship by presenting lectures by master artisans in their respective crafts and the Mechanic’s Institute offers tuition-free courses, unique in the city, taught by instructors who have hand-on experience, are currently working in their trade and teach the latest techniques. Call 212.840.1840 ext 1 for a school catalog.

THE JOHN M. MOSSMAN LOCK COLLECTION is of interest. It represents one of the most complete anthologies of bank and vault locks in the world, with more than 370 locks, keys and tools dating from 4000 BC to the modern 20-th century. To augment the lock collection, Mr. Mossman donated his notes and scrapbooks, known as the Mossman papers, which have proven to be a valuable resource for study of locks. “The Lure of the Lock,” published in 1928 describes each look in the collection. Other holdings of note in collections of various antebellum curios, rare books, prints, flags, clocks and medals donated by friends and members.

DON’T YOU THINK ITS ABOUT TIME TO VISIT THE LIBRARY OF THE GENERAL SOCIETY OF MECHANICS & TRADESMEN OF THE CITY OF NEW YORK? The Library is open to the public for on-site use and research Monday to Thursday: 11am-7pm and Friday: 10am-5pm. Research collections and archives by appointment. Telephone 212.921-1767 ext. 4. For levels of contribution and membership Email: library@generalsociety.org. Visit www.genralsociety.org.

LITTLE CHURCH AROUND THE CORNER (c) A Vibrant Refuge Today By Polly Guerin

Nestled in the middle of the block, at 1 East 29th Street in the NoMad neighborhood of Manhattan, New Yorker’s might suddenly stand in awe and admire the site of a quaint Episcopal, Church of the Transfiguration, which became known as the Little Church Around the Corner. Time is freeze framed where the sanctuary is set back from the street behind a garden, which in contrast to the skyscraper giants creates a facsimile of the English countryside. A refuge from modern society, the church has long been an oasis for New Yorkers of all faiths, who relax in the garden, pray in the chapel or come for the free lunchtime concerts.

LEGENDARY EPISODES The church’s storied history always stressed service to the poor and oppressed from its earliest days. The congregation was founded in 1848 by the Rev. Dr. George Hendric Houghton and worshipped in a home at 48 East 29th Street until church was built and consecrated in 1849. Rev. Houghton was a man ahead of his time and was a brave supporter of the oppressed. In 1863, during the Civil War Draft Riots, Houghton gave sanctuary to African Americans who were under attack but when rioters showed up at the church, Houghton turned them away saying “You white devils, you! Do you know nothing of the spirit of Christ?”

SERVICE TO THE OPPRESSED
Actors were among the social outcasts in the 1870s so it is no wonder that they found refuge at the church. When an actor named George Holland died a rector of Church of Atonement, which is no longer extant, refused to conduct funeral services for the actor, he suggested, “I believe there is a little church around the corner where they do that sort of thing.” Joseph Jefferson, a fellow actor who was trying to arrange Holland’s burial, exclaimed, “If that be so, God bless the Little Church around the Corner!” and that is how the church began a longstanding association with the theater and affectionately acquired the quaint name. In 1923, the Episcopal Actors’ Guild held its first meeting at Transfiguration and celebrated actors Basil Rathbone, Tallulah Bankhead and Rex Harrison have served as officers or council members.

THE LITTLE CHURCH AROUND THE CORNER is also a favorite wedding site. When P.G. Wodehouse, was living in Greenwich Village he married his wife Ethel at the Little Church in 1914. Not surprising, subsequently Wodehouse set most of his fictionalized weddings at the church; and in the hit musical “Sally” that he wrote with Jerome Kern and Guy Bolton, paid tribute to the Bohemian congregation where so many lives began and ended. Notably Sir Rex Harrison was memorialized at the church upon his death in 1990 and Maggie Smith and Brendan Gill were among the celebrated stars who spoke at the service. The Little Church’s association with the theatre continues today with programs and performances by talented actors.

In 1967, the Little Church Around the Corner, was designated a New York landmark and in 1973 it was listed on the national Register of Historic Places. www.littlechurch.org. Historian guides often give tours of the church, contact the church for the schedule.

CROSSROADS OF A MILLION LIVES, The New York Transit Museum (c) By Polly Guerin

Calling all train enthusiasts, youngest train fans and history buffs--- GRAND CENTRAL TERMINAL’S 100th birthday is in February, 2013, and you’re invited to a year-long party with special family tours and scavenger hunts in the place that is known as the “crossroads of a million lives.” Celebrate by visiting the New York Transit Museum Gallery Annex at Grand Central Terminal at 42nd Street and Park Avenue, Shuttle Passage adjacent to the Station Master’s Office, where you’ll find popular exhibits to entertain and educate.

THE NEW YORK TRANSIT MUSEUM located on the corner of Boerum Place and Schermerhorn Street, in Brooklyn Heights, one of the city’s leading cultural institutions, is the largest museum in the United States devoted to urban public transportation history, and one of the premier institutions of its kind in the world. Since its inception, over a quarter century ago, the Museum, housed in a historic 1936 IND subway station in Brooklyn Heights is the custodian and interpreter of the region’s extensive public transportation networks, which has grown in scope and through its public programs. The NYTM’s galleries feature popular exhibits such as steel, Stone and Backbone, which recounts the tale of building New York City’s 100 year old subway system.

THE FATHER OF THE NEW YORK SUBWAY SYSTEM Legend has it that this rich and vibrant history would not be complete without mentioning Abram Stevens Hewitt, one time mayor of the City of New York (1887-88). During his administration he concentrated on major municipal improvements in the city. He was noted for his public spirit and is best known for the planning and financing of the New York subway system. By the 1890s, new elevated lines were being used extensively by the city’s prosperous middle and upper classes on the way to and from their daily activities. Hewitt is recognized as the “Father of the New York Subway system.”

MEET MISS SUBWAYS: New York’s Beauty Queens 1941-1976, in Brooklyn Heights through March 25, 2013. Miss Subways was New York’s most iconic and democratic beauty contest. Young women of mostly middle and working class backgrounds were selected, not just for their looks, but for the aspirations and dreams they had for their futures, and during l942-76 their portraits and biographies were displayed in subway cars throughout the city. You can see their current and former portraits and hear their voices in this poignant exhibit.

WITH MILES AND MILES OF RAILS AND TALES TO TELL TAKE TIME TO VISIT THE TRANSIT MUSEUM THIS YEAR. Contact www.mta/info/museum

POMANDER WALK: An English Country Village (c) By Polly Guerin

New York City is full of surprises! No need to travel to Europe to get a glimpse of an English country village. Just get off the beaten path and go to the upper west side and stroll down from Broadway to West End Avenue and you will literally stumble upon Pomander Walk located between 94th and 95th streets.. This picturesque charming village conceals eight attached Tudor-style houses hidden behind locked wrought iron gates, so entry is very private. One wonders, however,—who lives here?—and how and who was the builder of the Lilliputian town?
POMANDER WALK INSPIRED Once upon a time, after a run in London, the play "Pomander Walk," a romantic comedy came to Broadway in 191l--and there you are-- that’s how this hidden treasure got its name. Thomas Healy, an Irish immigrant who made his fortune as a restaurant owner and ardent theater lover, purchased the land for the walk in 1920. He commissioned the architects Shiras Campbell and Beverly King to build a residential enclave there, and asked them to replicate the country village of the sets from “Pomander Walk.” The sets were used as inspiration but the architects altered the original design to look more Tudoresque.
WHO LIVES THERE? It is legend that Healy built Pomander Walk to attract actors and Pomander did draw the theatre folk. It is said that Lillian Gish, Humphrey Bogart lived there, but it is more than certain that that flamboyant Rosalind Russell and Paulette Goddard did have digs of their own.. At first the houses were built with two bedroom apartments, but later renters combined the two making the house into a family home trimmed with bright reds, greens and blues, some with shutters, some with window boxes and a miniature garden in front. Pomander Walk was landmarked by the city in 1982.

As high-rise buildings hover over Pomander Walk the Lilliputian houses are miniaturized and made even more intriguing by the sheer charm of the place . Even if you fancy having the opportunity to live there, affording it can be a drawback. In today’s market, a single family house can go in the millions and an apartment pricey as well. For now we can only peer through the gates at a living stage inspired by the sets in a play by the same name.

COLLECTORS CLUB, PHILATELIC HEADQUARTERS (c) By Polly Guerin

An elegant five-story brownstone nestled in the historic enclave of Murray Hill, at 22 East 35th Street, is often passed without a ruffle of interest by ordinary foot traffic, except if one is a stamp collector or the curious onlooker. Yet, if one pauses, as I often do to look at the exterior, I wondered, “What is this charming building doing here?” I had the opportunity recently to learn more about this storied place when I was invited by a club member to a holiday party.
HISTORICAL REFERENCE Standing in the shadow of the Empire State Building the Collectors Club, philatelic headquarters, is distinguished by its fascinating façade. In 1902 the famous architect Stanford White completely redesigned the structure for an art dealer and collector, whose new home garnered lavish praise for its beauty and became a showcase for his art collection. Thanks to the generosity of Alfred Lichtenstein, one of the giants of early philately, it became the Club’s permanent home in 1938 and in 1979, it was designated an historic landmark by the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission. A $1 million renovations in 2001 restored the famous windows and assured the interior/exterior of the Clubhouse would meet the needs of the club well into the future.
THE LIBRARY A treasure trove of documents, auction records, famous stamp collections, the Collector’s club boasts one of the most extensive philatelic libraries anywhere in the world. Beyond housing some of the rare pieces in philatelic literature, it is very much a ‘working’ library. Members can research or browse through thousands of philatelic publications, comprehensive groups of historical periodicals and extensive runs of priced auction catalogues. They also boast a Youth Stamp Club to encourage a new generation of collectors.
EARLY FOUNDERS In the Golden Age of stamp collection the Club was founded in New York City in the summer of 1896 as a way to “gather…all the societies, all the auctions and all the philatelic interests of the city.” It counted among its members leading, even legendary, names in philately. Founding members included John W. Scott of catalog and album fame, John Nicolas Luff, Hiram Deats, and Charles Mekell. Later members included such famous names as Alfred F. Lichtenstein and Theodore Steinway to name a few. One of the most famous honorary members was Franklin D. Roosevelt, who lived in the Murray Hill area at the time and also attended the Church of the Incarnation at the corner of 35th and Madison Avenue.

If you intend to visit: The Collectors Club is open Monday through Friday, 10am to 5pm; however, call ahead to make an appointment. (212.683-0559). The library and its support committee are available on Wednesdays, also from 10 to 5 pm. If you are interested in membership contact the Membership Secretary at collectorsclub@nac.net.

SNIFFEN COURT...HISTORICAL PRIVATE ALLEY (c) By Polly Guerin

New York’s hidden treasures can be just down a side street in historic Murray Hill section of the city where a miniature village exists. Still framed in time it lets us vicariously travel back to the Civil War era in old New York. On a nonchalant stroll we may find ourselves in front of the locked gate on 36th street between Lexington and Third Avenues where an intimate group of 10 picturesque houses are ensconced with traces of foliage, potted flowers and window boxes to complete the picturesque site.
ORIGINALLY STABLES These two storied structures were originally stables owned by old New York families who lived in Murray Hill and now are a testament to historical preservation. Let’s not forget that this area was considered in those days as a very tony part of old New York and many celebrated New Yorker’s moved to this area, far uptown some said at the time. The structures are brick, some in their natural brownstone color and others painted various shades of gray and green while others are black. To the most part they are considered as early Romanesque Revival.
THE BUILDER The ten brick stables were build in the 1850s by a local builder John Sniffen and were converted into town houses in the 1920s with a studio at the south end. Horses once watered at the hand pump in front of the rear way at the far end of the flagstone-paved alley. Plaques of Greek horsemen adorn the rear wall by the sculptress, Malvina Hoffman, who maintained her studio there during the 1920s and 30s. When carriages were replaced by automobiles, individual premises were converted into dwellings with common access to the alley.
THE AMATEUR COMEDY CLUB Number One on Sniffen Court has been owned by the Amateur Comedy Club since 1884, and registered as a legitimate theater, albeit a private one. It is not open to the public but stages legitimate shows strictly by and for the amusement of its own members and social circle. I was fortunate to attend several performances as a guest of a member and I am reminded how truly professional these thespians are performing as they do staged classic revivals. The only time the club broke their private rule was during WWI, when it became a dramatic theater company for the entertainment of military service members.
THE MURRAY LADIES ENTERTAIN There are other historic sites worth seeing while you are in Murray Hill. Legend has it that Mrs. Mary Lindley Murray and her daughters entertained British General Howe and his troops for tea, while General Putnam and his American troops moved northward. The Murray home, Belmont, was located at Park Avenue and 37th Street, on their farm known as Inclenberg. A bronze plaque honoring Mary Lindley Murray, placed by the Daughters of the American Revolution, is embedded in a boulder in the southern mall at Park Avenue and 37th Street.
Visit Sniffen Court, a New York Historic District and National Register of Historic Places, at 150-158 East 36th Street. IMAGES, courtesy of the Estate of Dean Avery, of historic and architecturally important buildings in Murray Hill are available for purchase as black-and-white note cards, prints and a map through www.murrayhillnyc.org.